Orchids have a reputation for being fussy little divas. They’re not, really. They’re just quite particular about a few things.
Most orchids sold as houseplants are Phalaenopsis, or moth orchids — the ones you’re most likely to have sitting on your windowsill. In the wild, their ancestors grow attached to trees rather than planted in soil, with their roots exposed to air, moisture and light. Which explains quite a lot about what they want from you.
Get those few things right and a Phalaenopsis can flower for months, live for years and bloom again and again. The trick is learning to read it.
Anatomy of an orchid
Where to place your orchid
Good position
Give your orchid plenty of bright, indirect light.
Near an east-facing window is excellent.
A bright north-facing room can also work beautifully in New Zealand, provided the plant isn't being scorched by strong direct summer sun.
not-good position
A low-light bathroom is not the right place for an orchid.
If yours stubbornly refuses to flower again, light is one of the first things to reconsider.
The 3-step watering rule: drench, drain, leave it alone
1. Drench
Rather than giving yours little sips of water every few days, give it a proper drink, allowing water to run through the orchid bark and out of the drainage holes.
Water when the potting mix is approaching dry rather than keeping it permanently damp. How quickly that happens depends on the season, temperature, pot and growing medium, so don't become religiously attached to “every Tuesday”.
2. Drain
Let all the excess water drain away.
Tip: try not to leave water sitting in the crown — the centre where the leaves meet. Persistent moisture there can encourage rot.
3. Leave it alone
Return the drained orchid to its cover pot and to its original position.
Tip: once you find a good well-lit spot for your orchid and it's happy – don't move it (except for watering).
happy vs. not-so-happy: orchid body language
Happy Leaves
- Firm and plump
- Rich green colour
- Standing upright
Happy Roots
- Silvery green (dry)
- Green (after water)
- Firm to touch
Happy Flowers
- Vibrant colour
- Firm petals
- Lasts for weeks
Not-happy leaves
- Yellowing or mushy
- Wrinkled or limp
- Drooping
Not-happy roots (too wet for too long)
- Brown and mushy
- Smelly
- Hollow
Not-happy flowers
- Dull or faded flowers
- Wrinkled petals
- Drop quickly
Is it dying, or has it simply finished flowering?
This is probably the point at which the greatest number of perfectly healthy orchids are quietly written off.
The flowers start looking slightly tired.
Then one wrinkles.
Then another drops.
Soon you're left with a naked green stick where all the magnificence used to be.
Your orchid is not dead.
It has simply finished its flowering cycle.
Once the last flower on a spike has faded and fallen, flowering on that particular display is finished. What you do next depends partly on what the spike itself is doing.
1. In full bloom
2. Flowers fade
3. Last flower drops
4. time to decide: cut it back or leave?
How to cut the spike back
Option 1 – encourage the same spike to bloom again
- Find a healthy green node
- Cut about 1 cm above it
- This may producs a side shoot and flower again (not guaranteed but worth a try!)
Option 2 – for a fresh start
- Cut the spike right down to the base
- The plant will focus energy on new growth and a new spike
When will it flower again?
Most orchids bloom once a year, but with good care, some can flower twice! Every orchid (and every home) is different. Light, temperature and care all play a part. The best thing you can give your orchid? Consistency and a little bit of love.
Typically, expect new spikes in:
4–6 weeks
New leaf or root growth is a good sign.
6–12 weeks
A new spike will emerge from the base.
3–5 months
Buds develop along the spike.
6–12 months
Flowers open again. Cue happy dance.
Is it a spike or is it a root?
New flower spike
- Flatter, slightly pointed tip.
- Has visible nodes as it lengthens.
- Stays firm and green.
New root
- Rounded, smooth tip.
- Often silvery-grey when dry, then greener when wet.
- Thick and fleshy.
What if it just won't flower?
Your orchid looks healthy. The leaves are glossy, the roots are firm, it’s growing happily — but there’s not a flower spike in sight. Rude.
Don’t panic. Phalaenopsis naturally spend time growing new leaves and roots between flowering cycles. If it’s been a while, though, check these three things:
It might need more light.
Not enough bright, indirect light is one of the most common reasons an otherwise healthy orchid won’t flower.
It may need cooler nights.
The natural drop in nighttime temperatures, particularly in autumn, can help trigger a new flower spike.
It might simply need time.
New roots and leaves are good news. Your orchid may just be gathering energy for its next performance.
Keep giving it good light, water it properly and let it get on with things.
Orchids move slowly. That’s part of their charm.